Morning Brew - ☕ Stairway to seven

The democratizing, rising escalator
Morning Brew August 19, 2022

Retail Brew

Listrak

It’s Friday. If you’re still contemplating your weekend plans, here’s your heads up that Sephora has expanded into all Kohl’s stores. Happy shopping!

In today’s edition:

—Andrew Adam Newman, Jeena Sharma

RETAIL

Tools of the trade

A photograph of escalators with a neutral white background. Getty

There are devices in the retail world we take for granted. Let’s stop doing that.

Escalator

  • Patented: 1859
  • First patent holder: Nathan Ames

One small step: It took a while for the escalator to start ascending.

In 1859, Nathan Ames, of Saugus, Massachusetts, filed a patent for what he called “revolving stairs,” with illustrations that are recognizably an escalator, but he never built one—and the idea languished for decades.

In 1892, engineer Jesse Reno revived the idea, securing a patent for his “inclined elevator.” Rather than articulated stairs, it was essentially a conveyor belt—like a big treadmill—that went from floor to floor. It made its debut on Coney Island in 1896, where, in a two-week demonstration, about 75,000 people rode the contraption.

It ascended seven feet.

The first device built with steps debuted at the 1900 Paris Exposition, brought to life by a team that included the Otis Elevator Company. It was the first time the device was called an escalator—its etymology uncertain but possibly based on the French word escalade, which means “climbing,” with Otis tacking on the last two syllables from its beloved elevator.

Otis trademarked “escalator” in 1900, but the US Patent and Trademark Office canceled the trademark in 1950, ruling the term had become generic—a case of what legal circles darkly call genericide.

Retailers bought in early to the up-scale experience of escalators. Keep reading.AAN

        

TOGETHER WITH LISTRAK

Marketing pros, start with what you own

Listrak

As a marketer, your job is to plan for the future, even when that future looks a liiiitttttttle uncertain. To achieve predictable results in unpredictable times, focus on what you already own—and let Listrak help you make the most of it.

Owned channels (your website, email, and mobile marketing) are more important than ever. You need to maximize and optimize these channels to deliver top-notch, personalized experiences. Because personalized experiences drive revenue.

Listrak’s Growth Xcelerator Platform (GXP) gathers and analyzes customer data from those owned channels, then uses it to create a better, more personalized customer experience. Plus, Listrak’s best-in-class email and SMS messages create cross-channel communications built to engage and convert.

What’s more, GXP’s performance guarantees mean you’ll know you’re making the most out of your owned channels. Start here.

        

BEAUTY

Beauty and the beat

Ulta Beauty shop within a Target store Target

Rising costs are driving consumers to not only reconsider spending habits, but also completely eliminate things from their purchase list that they might not necessarily need. When it comes to beauty, customers are not necessarily ready to give up on skin care or hair care luxuries just yet.

Instead, they’re trading down.

“Beauty, especially color cosmetics, suffered overall during the pandemic. Some consumers became more cost conscious and open to lower-priced labels, including private labels, when they otherwise wouldn’t have been prior to the pandemic,” Michelle Kluz, partner in the consumer practice of Kearney—who was also recently named CEO of Stila Cosmetics—told Retail Brew in an email.

Take Elf Beauty, for instance: It beat Wall Street forecasts in its quarterly results. 

  • A portion of that success came from the sales of its $10 hero product Power Grip Primer as consumers traded down from a high-end rival product (which went unnamed) priced at $34, Tarang Amin, Elf’s chairman and CEO, told WWD.

Private-label beauty may benefit from the “trading down” trend, because brands can offer an affordable price with a side of aspirational quality.

Pivoting to private: “If you see that the shampoo…that you bought last month or three months ago went from $10 to $14, you just might say, ‘I’m trading down. Let me see what I can get in private label,’” Marie Driscoll, managing director of luxury and retail at Coresight, told Retail Brew.

  • Private-label brands made up 6.8% of sales at Sephora, in the year ending June 2022, per Jonah Ellin, chief product officer at 1010data.
  • Between April and December 2020, overall beauty sales were down 17% online, and online sales at Sephora and Ulta were down 25.5%.
  • During the same period, private label Sephora Collection and Ulta brand items were slightly up at 0.5%.

Retailers are sticking by private labels for bargain beauty—keep reading.JS

        

TOGETHER WITH WUNDERKIND

Wunderkind

Retailer prep for Black Friday + Cyber Monday. Wunderkind’s 2022 Market Outlook Report outlines easy, actionable steps your biz can take to cultivate customer loyalty and enhance their experiences. Get equipped for the 2022 holiday szn—and beyond—with strategies that target relevance and revenue. Download the free report here.

        

SWAPPING SKUS

Today’s top retail reads.

Slow and steady: 90% of retailers across the US now take Apple Pay—a feat that took an incredible amount of patience on Apple’s part. (the Wall Street Journal)

P(l)aying it fair: Tip fatigue, what tip fatigue? Despite restaurant price hikes, restaurant goers remain undeterred and aren’t cutting back on tips. (CNBC)

Dumpster chic: Shoppers eager to check out Kanye West’s Yeezy Gap line may find themselves rummaging through trash-bag-like totes at Gap stores. (Insider)

TOGETHER WITH INSIDER INTELLIGENCE

Consumers are likely to spend more than ever in 2022. Insider Intelligence’s team of analysts share 3 of the biggest trends in the retail industry that every commerce professional should know.

Download the report now

WHAT ELSE IS BREWING

  • Foot Locker taps Ulta Beauty’s Mary Dillon as CEO, as Dick Johnson steps down.
  • Starbucks COO John Culver is set to leave the company after two decades, as the company eliminates his role as part of a restructuring.
  • Estée Lauder’s sales forecast faltered below estimates as the jump in the US dollar and pressures from lockdowns in China continued.
  • Wayfair stock sinks in premarket trading after it cut 5% of its global workforce.

FRIEND OR FAUX?

Three of the stories below are real...and one is most definitely not. Can you spot the fake?

  1. A sustainable-fashion company is refurbishing trash bags into $300 worth of colorful outfits.
  2. Capri Sun’s Wild Cherry drink is part of a recall for being potentially contaminated with cleaning solution.
  3. Costco’s stylish wear is inspiring searches for “Costco clothing” on TikTok.
  4. Snoop Dogg has launched a gluten-free cereal, called Snoop Loopz.

ICYMI

Catch up on the Retail Brew stories you may have missed.

FRIEND OR FAUX ANSWER

$300? For a trash-y outfit? No way!

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Written by Andrew Adam Newman and Jeena Sharma

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