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Everyone keeps calling them The Boys. These rascals. You can’t keep them down. The Boys are blamed and credited for the Vegasification of New York, the Disneyfication of dining out, the normalization of $89 veal parm. The Boys are sellouts, money men, clout chasers. They are also, the same people will tell you, brilliant. Masters of theater, dizzyingly charming, a well-oiled machine. You have to hand it to The Boys. They deliver.

The Boys are chefs Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi, along with business guy Jeff Zalaznick, and the trio’s government name is Major Food Group. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Mario studied under who we might call The Men — Daniel Boulud, Mario Batali, Wylie Dufresne — in Anthony Bourdain’s Manhattan, where big dicks ruled the kitchen and balsamic was artfully splattered across too-large plates. In 2009, Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi opened their first restaurant, Torrisi Italian Specialties, in Little Italy. On a block known for its tourist traps, it was a surprisingly good neighborhood spot, with a seven-course tasting menu for only $50, which is about as punk as a tasting menu can be. Then came Carbone.