A blazer is one of those magic trick wardrobe pieces. You can pair a blazer with a dress, jeans and a t-shirt or with trousers and a blouse—no matter the combo, you appear instantly polished. There are so many colors and fabrics to choose from to suit your style and the climate, but no matter what final look you’re going for, one thing remains true: It has to fit properly.

Now, chances are a blazer won’t fit perfectly off the rack (if it does, tell me where you found it). But these points are important to consider both before making a purchase and after visiting a tailor you trust to be sure you have the correct final fit:

1. Consider your height.

Keeping in mind how tall you are can help you find the best-fitting everyday blazer. I am shorter, so anything that hits me mid-thigh makes me look out of proportion. A blazer that falls at or just below my hips (covering my bum) keeps my legs from disappearing. Longer, more oversized styles are friendlier to longer legs.

2. Check your shoulders.

For a more classic fit, the shoulder seams of the blazer should line up with the outer edge of your shoulder. Too far in and the blazer is likely too tight and if they’re sticking out like wings, it’s probably too big.

3. Button it up.

If the blazer has buttons, you need to test this out as well, especially if you have a larger bust. When closed, the blazer should lay smooth without pulling or gaping at the buttons or lapel. If you have a larger chest, choosing a double-breasted style with more buttons placed higher can help with this issue. Even if you never plan to button the blazer up, whether or not you can is a good indicator you have the right size.

4. Look out for your thumbs.

Now stand up straight with your arms hanging down at your sides and look in the mirror. Are you missing your thumbs? All of your knuckles should be exposed, ideally with one to two inches of space between the cuff and the bottom knuckle of your thumb. When you bend and raise your arm, you should be able to check a watch without needing to push the sleeve up more.

5. Give yourself a hug.

Once the blazer is on and buttoned up, wrap your arms around yourself in a hug. If you can’t do it, you need to go up a size. You shouldn’t feel like you’re in a straight jacket. Make sure you do this final test wearing the type of shirt you normally would underneath. If that is a silk camisole, great, but if you prefer to have the option of layering a blouse and a crewneck sweater under there, you will need more room.

Want more tips? Learn how to shop for a nighttime skincare routine here.

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