Morning Brew - ☕ Open secret

Revealing rebranding efforts with Victoria’s Secret.
December 01, 2022

Retail Brew

Ampla

Good afternoon. Now that you’ve had a day to digest your Spotify Wrapped, we just wanted to give a heads-up that December will sort of be “Retail Brew Wrapped.” We’ll revisit some of the most interesting stories of the year and attempt to make sense of (mostly) everything that took place in the industry this year, so be on the lookout.

In today’s edition:

—Jeena Sharma, Erin Cabrey

STRATEGY

Can you keep a secret?

Street view of people standing in front of a Victoria's Secret store Yujie Chen/Getty Images

For years, Victoria’s Secret was synonymous with its annual fashion shows where an array of supermodels—dubbed “Angels”—paraded the brand’s latest intimate offerings. In the process, the brand also cemented its reputation as one that excluded several groups including plus-sized shoppers, people of color, and trans people, among others.

The company was slammed for promoting unrealistic beauty standards, sexism, and discrimination while its top executives were ousted for claims of sexual misconduct—all leading to a dip in its market share as competitors began to embrace more inclusive and plus-sized offerings. Fast-forward to 2021: Its otherwise problematic corporate leadership was out the door as the brand embarked on an overhaul strategy by hiring a diverse range of brand ambassadors and promoting inclusive messaging in its campaigns.

While it elicited a healthy dose of skepticism among consumers, Victoria’s Secret has come a long way since, with swimwear and intimates lines that feature an expanded size range; bringing on trans, plus-sized, and Black models; and extending its styles and fabrications.

The retailer’s recent acquisition of AdoreMe, a DTC women’s intimates brand known for its extended sizing, marked another signifier in its commitment to redeeming itself from a dubious past.

“AdoreMe was a huge investment and a huge signifier to the community to say, ‘We’re not just saying that we’re doing this. We’re actually doing it,’” Erin Schmidt, senior analyst at Coresight Research, told Retail Brew.

A new chapter: The revamp, however, is more than just about rebranding, it’s about connecting with modern and younger consumers through social media imaging and new styles.

Slow and steady: For any brand, including Victoria’s Secret, to be able to replicate what others, like Abercrombie & Fitch, have accomplished, it needs to keep a few key things in mind, starting with turning words into actions.

Keep reading here.—JS

        

TOGETHER WITH AMPLA

Cash flowin’, biz growin’

Ampla

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Ampla’s tech-enabled platform underwrites all aspects of your operations, from e-comm to wholesale. Draw on Ampla’s line of credit to fund inventory buys and marketing, pay vendors, and more. Ampla’s Growth Line of Credit offers complimentary access to Ampla Banking and Ampla Bill Pay to help streamline your entire financial operations stack.

Secure the bag and get started here.

LABOR

Role call

Sephora store front Adrian Hancu/Getty Images

Since we finally finished that Ziploc of leftover Thanksgiving Pillsbury crescent rolls, we’re shifting our focus to a different kind of role, particularly in retailers’ C-suites. In November, lots of retailers said hello to new CEOs, while others saw some major departures, so we rounded up the most noteworthy people moves of the month.

  • After Kohl’s faced pressure to change up its leadership, its CEO, Michelle Gass, is leaving the retailer to join Levi Strauss & Co. as president, and eventual CEO over the next 18 months. Tom Kingsbury, a Kohl’s director and former Burlington Stores CEO, will serve as interim CEO.
  • Adidas tapped Puma CEO Bjørn Gulden as its next chief executive, effective January 1.
  • Puma promoted Chief Commercial Officer Arne Freundt as its new CEO and board chairman.
  • Sephora named LVMH Fashion Group Deputy Chief Guillaume Motte as its new CEO, replacing Chris de Lapuente, who has served as CEO since Martin Brok left in June.
  • Bath & Body Works’s new CEO is Gina Boswell, joining the retailer after serving as head of Unilever UK and Ireland.
  • As Party City looks to optimize its supply chain amid many new cost-saving efforts, it named Peter Smith as its new COO. He joins from children’s apparel company Carter’s, where he served as EVP of global supply chain.
  • Dollar Tree added a slew of new C-suite roles, including Yeti VP of ESG Jennifer Silberman as chief sustainability officer and Terence Goods, former VP of diversity and inclusion at Southern Glazer’s Wine and Spirits, as chief diversity officer.

Resign of the times: The most buzzworthy departure this month was Alesandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director since 2015 and a member of its team for two decades, who stepped down from the fashion brand.

Keep reading here.—EC

        

TOGETHER WITH TEAMPAY

Teampay

Go with the (cash) flow: Managing your biz’s spend just isn’t vibey. Reading the details of a purchase order? Snooze. Denying an over-the-limit happy hour? Cringe. Fortunately, Teampay can help. They automate your repetitive tasks and streamline the awkward expense convos. Complete a qualified meeting before Dec. 6 and get a $100 Mastercard® reward card.* 

*Conditions apply

SWAPPING SKUS

Today’s top retail reads.

Sigh of relief: Retailers saw moderate to strong growth this Black Friday, but that doesn’t mean they won’t have to worry about a recessionary environment moving forward. Deep discounting is expected to be a major strategy moving into 2023. (Business of Fashion)

Burn(out) notice: For some retail workers, their jobs keep them social and mentally stimulated, but for others, the chaotic work, lack of benefits, and long hours are burning them out. (WWD)

Big catch: Ever wonder what a hotel inside a Bass Pro Shops inside a pyramid looks like? Probably not, but Big Cypress Lodge in Memphis has answered that question. (the Wall Street Journal)

Does your biz impress? In NewStore’s 2023 Omnichannel Leadership Report, shoppers assessed the omnichannel chops of 300 US brands. Was your brand one of ’em? Find out who made the list here.*

*This is sponsored advertising content.

WHAT ELSE IS BREWING

  • Amazon recorded its largest Thanksgiving shopping weekend ever.
  • Petco saw strong Q3 earnings with the help of its health and wellness services.
  • The Lnk has revealed its new marketplace for diverse indie beauty and fashion brands.
  • Hormel Foods’s stock dipped after a slump in its turkey sales.
  • Wonder, Marc Lore’s mobile kitchen and food-delivery startup, laid off 7% of its workforce.
  • Candy canes slipped in CandyStore.com’s annual state-by-state rankings of the most popular holiday sweets.

NUMBERS GAME

The numbers you need to know.

Retailers were cautiously optimistic for this year’s Black Friday/Cyber Monday shopping season, and it turns out—by and large—consumers seemed pleased with what they saw.

As Retail Brew reported earlier this week, e-commerce shopping grew from last year to a record $9.12 billion in sales. Cyber Monday was even more significant as sales increased to another record $11.3 billion, according to Adobe, which said demand, not just inflation, explained the bump.

About 61% of shoppers were pleased with the promotion and deals that were available during Black Friday weekend, with 25% saying they were very pleased and 36% reporting they were somewhat pleased, according to a 1,000-person survey conducted by Blue Yonder.

  • It appears shoppers may have been largely holding out for Cyber Monday, as 60% of those surveyed said they spent less than normal during the Black Friday weekend.

Despite more strict return policies, 25% of shoppers said they are likely to return an item this year, which is a major jump from 16% the National Retail Federation predicted would be returned in 2021.

The shifting holiday shopping season is also very much real: 48% of shoppers said they have completed over half of their holiday shopping, while almost another quarter (23%) said they’re at least 75% of the way through their shopping.

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Written by Jeena Sharma and Erin Cabrey

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