Whenever someone asks me for skincare recommendations, I usually reply by asking, “Are you using retinol yet?” Once you kiss your 20s goodbye, retinol should be priority No. 1 when it comes to building your skincare routine, and this edition is full of tips for finding “the one.”

This edition was originally published on August 11, 2022. Enjoy!

Retinol is probably my favorite skincare ingredient. This powerful active, which is a derivative of vitamin A, can help with acne, hyperpigmentation, texture and more when applied topically. If you’re only going to add one powerhouse ingredient to your skincare routine, make it retinol. One and done.

But shopping for retinol as a first-time user can be intimidating. There are a lot of formulas out there with varying strengths, which can make it hard to choose the right one. If you’ve been putting off adding retinol to your skincare lineup, here are five tips to help you land on the ideal product to give your complexion a boost:

1. Set your skin goals.

I highly recommend retinol for anyone age 30 and above. It can help with the damage you inflicted on your skin in your teens and support the health of your skin going forward. But when adding any new product to your routine, you should assess the current health of your skin and decide what you want to work on. This will help you in the next steps when it comes to the strength of retinol you choose and how often you use it.

2. Compare formulas.

Retinol can be applied to the skin via serums, gels and creams. I prefer a lighter formula, like a serum, for my oily skin. But if you have very dry, or sensitive skin, a richer formula can be more nourishing. Some products will include lactic or hyaluronic acid, oils or other actives, but if you’re not sure how well your skin will tolerate the retinol, go for a simpler formula to start with. One thing I always recommend looking for is an encapsulated retinol. The retinol in these products is more stable and gentle on the skin but able to penetrate deeply to deliver results.

3. Choose your strength.

Slow and steady wins the skincare race. When in doubt, go the gentle route. New users should start with a product that contains 0.25 or 0.3% retinol. This will still deliver some results, without being too harsh. Non-prescription products are typically available with up to 2% retinol. Once you’ve used up two to four bottles of one strength, you can move up to the next strength level to improve your results. While retinol is the most common vitamin A derivative found in skincare products, you can look for products with retinyl palmitate if you want something more mild and retinaldehyde if you’re a seasoned pro and want something stronger.

4. Set your strategy.

If you’re new to using retinol or if you’re switching to a stronger formula, you need to add it into your routine gradually so your skin can adjust more comfortably. Start with once a week for two weeks, then go up to twice a week for the next two and keep adding days until you can tolerate it on a nightly basis. Avoid using any other harsh actives with it (like acids) or any other exfoliant. You may need to add a different night cream to your routine that works better with retinol.

5. Commit for the long haul.

Retinol, like any skincare product, takes time to deliver results. It’s not an overnight fix. When you start using a new product, barring any bad reaction (i.e. itching, burning, redness, peeling), be prepared to give it at least three months before deciding if it’s working for you or not. Stick to the schedule you set in the last step for the best long-term results.

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