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What’s driving the personalization of beauty?
Morning Brew February 01, 2022

Retail Brew

PowerReviews

Hi there. It’s Black History Month—how are companies celebrating? Some are opting to focus their efforts on conversations about diversity and wellness to support the Black community. WWD has more of the deets here.

In today’s edition:

  • What’s driving the personalization of beauty?
  • Hole in one for PGA Tour Superstore
  • Pinterest expands its AR shopping tools

Julia Gray, Jeena Sharma, Katishi Maake

BEAUTY

Me time

Prose products Prose

A universally flattering lipstick is a compelling sell, but the rise of made-for-you beauty is suggesting an industry turning toward individualization.

Just as companies like Sephora and CoverGirl rolled out AR tools to let customers “try on” makeup and analyze their T-zones, personalization-focused beauty brands have emerged with the promise that their product is the right product for you and only you.

Investment in the space has grown in eight out of the 11 years between 2010 and 2021, per PitchBook data reported to Retail Dive, topping $1 billion as of September last year.

  • Compare that to the $1.7 billion raised in total by the entire beauty industry by that point in 2021.
  • Plus, out of 146 total deals in the beauty space, about two-thirds were in personalized beauty.

But, what does it take to formulate a product assortment that accommodates each customer’s specific needs? Retail Brew spoke to the co-founders of Pure Culture Beauty, Prose, and Proven Skincare about why they’re betting on custom products, and how they see the space growing.

First up: Prose’s Paul Michaux.

He and Arnaud Plas were working on corporate strategy at L’Oréal before they—along with real estate veteran Nicolas Mussat—started the personalized hair-care company in 2016 to tackle two problems: 1) customer segmentation and 2) plastic waste and over-production.

“The outcome of customer segmentation is that you end up trying to create a product for everyone. And that doesn’t really work. It’s trying to put people into a box,” Michaux told us. “But at the end of the day, you don’t create a platform for anyone that really works.”

What’s next: Michaux predicts more beauty brands and more tech will specialize in personalization. Prose, for example, developed its own fully stacked in-house DTC technology, which spans everything from its website to machine-learning algorithms for formula creations and routine recs.

In 2020, Prose even implemented an automated fulfillment machine, which lets the company “produce made-to-order products at scale,” Michaux explained.

  • It reprograms itself for each unique bottled formula, and Prose claims it’s helped output increase by 4x and precision by 5x.
  • The company, which said it’s been growing revenue by 2x–3x throughout the last three years, is currently on track to do over $100 million in revenue in 2022.

“The tech allows us to create this at scale,” Michaux said. “The trend is here to stay.”

Want more predictions? Click here to read what Pure Culture Beauty’s Joy Chen and Proven Skincare’s Ming Zhao think is coming up for the space.—JG

        

STORES

Above par

Putting green in a PGA Tour Superstore PGA Tour Superstore

For the PGA Tour Superstore, 2021 was a hole in one.

The specialty retailer said sales for the year grew more than 80% from 2019 (which was then a record year for the company) and that it did more $$ in the first half of 2021 than in all of 2019.

  • PGA Tour Superstore also noted that women’s apparel sales increased 59% from 2020, while women’s footwear was up 67%.
  • But…it didn’t share specific figures.

Drive it home: The company credits some of this growth to upping its in-store experiences, from interactive simulators to putting greens that let customers try before they buy. It also opened its 50th store in 2021, with plans for at least eight more this year.

“Our business is not as much just coming in and buying off the rack,” Dick Sullivan, PGA Tour Superstore’s president and CEO, told Retail Brew. “We want to customize what [customers are buying].”

  • Supply chains are having an effect—getting fitted for a set of clubs now takes weeks instead of days, noted Sullivan—but the company is focusing on its 150+ US suppliers to fulfill orders.

Hiring right: PGA Tour Superstore is also counting on its in-store employees to provide an unparalleled experience, rooted in educating shoppers.

  • When the pandemic shut down all of its stores for 50+ days in 2020, the company had its workers go through 40,000 hours of product training.

“We want our associates to be smarter when that customer comes in and asks them the question,” Sullivan said. “We want our associates to be smarter than the manufacturer, so we said, ‘We’ll reinvest dollars—versus putting the lights on in our buildings—we’ll reinvest in trainer associates to a whole different level.’”—JS

        

TOGETHER WITH POWERREVIEWS

Reviews don’t age like fine wine

PowerReviews

Let’s be honest: Seeing a bunch of old reviews from 2017 for a blender you’re eyeing can make you think twice (or thrice) before you decide to purchase.

Review recency matters. According to PowerReviews, two-thirds of consumers surveyed said they’d rather see a product have fewer, more-recent reviews than loads of reviews that are 90 days or older.

That’s not to say review volume means nothing. To help you understand how both can work together, PowerReviews just released a comprehensive study: The Power of Review Volume and Recency.

The report details how important it is to constantly refresh your review content—especially since a whopping 86% of consumers find review recency to be instrumental when considering a new brand. Whew.

And if you’re trying to boost your Gen Z audience, know that younger gens value recent reviews the most. The kids are all, well, right.

It’s all here in The Power of Review Volume and Recency.

TECH

Fully furnished

Pinterest AR shopping for furniture and home decor Pinterest

It’s 2022, and Pinterest wants to be at the forefront of the new wave of furniture shopping. The company yesterday announced it is expanding its AR tools to include furniture and home decor.

Decked out: Pinterest users in the US can now measure and size up chairs, couches, and more right in the company’s app to make sure it’s the right fit, literally, and go from pin to purchase. (The platform is working with retailers including Crate & Barrel, Walmart, Wayfair, and West Elm.)

  • With 80,000+ shoppable pins, this is Pinterest’s largest AR “Try On” shopping investment.

Making moves: Pinterest introduced its AR shopping tools back in 2020, letting users test lipstick, and followed that up with eyeshadow last year. It was only a matter of time before furniture joined the party: The company said home decor is its No. 1 category, with 3.37 billion search clicks in 2021.

  • Oh, and add that shoppers are 5x more likely to make a purchase from a Try On pin than a regular pin, per Pinterest.

“These behaviors are happening across Pinterest every day, which is why we’re continuing to advance technologies like AR Try On and make Pinterest a full-funnel shopping destination that takes people from inspiration to purchase anywhere in the app,” Jeremy King, the company’s SVP and head of engineering, said in a statement.—KM

        

WHAT ELSE IS BREWING

  • The Home Depot wants to hire a record 100,000 new employees for spring, its busiest season.
  • Peloton cut sales projections for its apparel biz, according to an internal memo seen by CNBC.
  • Domino’s is offering customers a $3 credit to opt for online carryout orders instead of delivery to help with labor shortages.
  • Jokr, the instant-delivery startup, is reportedly in talks to sell its New York operations.

FROM THE CREW

Valentine’s Day sale at the Morning Brew store

If your version of pillow talk typically includes subjects such as crypto, stocks, or a guy named Elon, we’ve got the perfect Valentine’s Day gifts for you.

Check out the Morning Brew Shop and shop the collection.

SWAPPING SKUS

Today’s top retail reads.

Look here: Retailers turn to facial-recognition tech to tackle smash-and-grab robberies, but not without controversy. (Forbes)

Toss up: Wilson, at 108, is finally adopting a DTC strategy—and has opened its first flagship store (where throwing balls inside is encouraged) since the shift. “My ambition is to create mayhem for our store staff,” explained Wilson’s president, Gordon Devin. (Retail Dive)

The buck shops here: Dollar Tree vs. Dollar General, a photo essay showdown. (Insider)

Check it out: Want to level up your daily life? Check out Sidekick, the twice-weekly newsletter that curates recipes, productivity hacks, and content recs to help you live smarter.

TIME MACHINE

Victoria's Secret wings on a coat hanger Francis Scialabba

What happened in the world of retail this week in…1925 and beyond? Retail Brew takes you way, way, way back.

Some companies really put on a show this week:

  • On January 30, 2015, after nearly a year (and a green light from the FTC), Albertsons and Safeway finally merged, creating the second-largest grocer in the US.
  • On January 31, 2016, Ernie Herrman was named the CEO of TJX.
  • On February 2, 1925, the first Sears store opened in Chicago.
  • On February 3, 1999, Victoria’s Secret streamed its first-ever online fashion show—drawing in about 1.5 million viewers worldwide. Oh, and this was about two months after the lingerie company even created its website.
  • And on February 5, 2009, Fortunoff, the furniture, home (and jewelry?) retailer, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy.

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Written by Julia Gray, Jeena Sharma, and Katishi Maake

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