👨‍✈️ The Briefing Room:

Notes and open topics from the editor’s desk.

Welcome Departures. The place to be for where to go and what to see. As a professional traveler, I have enjoyed some of the world’s best food and beverage for most of my adult life. Every once in a while, I will run across a gem so rare, that it challenges everything else I’ve experienced before it. A concept executed so well, it raises the bar with which other players in the space are measured. This is exactly where I place HB Bronze Coffee-bar in La Paz. So today I’m taking you on a café aficionado's tour of this jewel of the Bolivian capital.

Now without further ado, let’s take it away!

Alvin

☕️ The Location:

When I say jewel, it's not hyperbole. A short 5 minute walk from Plaza Murillo in the heart of La Paz, this modern landmark building, stands out from its modest surroundings like a diamond in the rough. As you approach the end of the sidewalk at Plaza Tomas Frias, the crosswalk leads you to the wood, brass and iron main entrance almost inviting you to step in.

☕️ The Ambiance:

Living in Paris, I get the privilege of frequenting iconic literary retreats the likes of Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots. In that context, if Ernest Hemingway was in La Paz, this is without a doubt where he would hang out. From the moment you walk through the door, you realize this is not your typical cafeteria. An imposing bookshelf greets you to a foyer that leads into an elegant two level room. Tables are handcrafted from up cycled sewing machine legs and old doors. Tall windows, drape the space with plenty of natural light. The upper level offers a cozier environment and oversees the busier lower floor under more subdued illumination.

Shelving units come from repurposed antique bronze beds. For the ears, there’s a soft musical soundtrack that blends well with the background. The warm wood, brass and iron elements tie the entire space together with a particular patina that accentuates the room’s character. To the eye, the room evokes an inspiring sense of glamour and nostalgia. All hallmarks of a perfectionist designer with an unapologetic devotion to details and a close relationship with sophistication. Free wifi is available, though it is intentionally metered to prevent laptops from overstaying their welcome. As a whole, the ambiance is very inviting whether you opt to read a book, write one or sit back to enjoy a conversation.

☕️ The Experience:

As you're ushered to a table, there is a distinct change of pace from the city’s hustle and bustle. Once the server returns a few minutes later with a moist warm towel and the menu, it becomes very evident you are in for a first class experience. Whether a fault or a feature, the expectation is set from the beginning that good things take time to prepare and enjoy.

While waiting for the coffee tasting to begin, I couldn’t help but appreciate the very handy visual type guide on the left edge of the coffee menu. This is one of the many examples of the attention to detail you can expect to see everywhere. I appended the full menu at the bottom of the article for reference.

The first bean in the coffee tasting consisted of a Geisha varietal produced by Fernando Calle from Finca Isabel in Caranavi and filtered on a V60. The second bean was a Bourbon varietal also from Finca Isabel, brewed on a Japanese syphon. The third and final bean was an award winning Geisha varietal produced by Julio Cesar Machaca from Finca Las Alturas in Chojña Pampa, filtered on a V60.

All three coffees were excellent with rich and very distinct aromas. The first Geisha from Finca Isabel felt smooth with very low acidity while their bourbon was creamy with lots of body. It’s no surprise why these are widely regarded some of the best coffees in Bolivia. My favorite though was the Geisha from Finca Alturas. It felt the most balanced to my palette. If anything leaning towards fruity in a very good way.

After the coffee tasting, it was time to dive a little deeper into the food menu. With so many options it’s easy to fall into decision paralysis. If you're pressed for time though, the most practical way to get a suitable sampling is to go for one of the Tablas.

These charcuterie boards offer 3 levels of the country’s finest cheeses and meats curated from Bolivia’s top producers. Although the menu suggests they are for sharing, I see no wrong in making them a decadent platter for one.

For the wine pairing, there was no shortage of appealing alternatives either. Bolivia, with it's unique topography is one of the Worlds most interesting wine regions. After sampling several of Carlos' recommendations, I settled for the Syrah from Cepas de Fuego. The wine is produced by Weymar Rios at the Cinti Valley in Tarija utilizing methods that go back 3 generations. To my palette, the wine presented distinct sweetness uncharacteristic of other Syrah wines. Medium body, with hints of oak and leather. Looking back, there is no such thing as a wrong choice when all the wines are this good.

☕️ The menu and final thoughts:

At first glance, HB Bronze’s menu offers a good range of staple hot and cold drinks, as well as a variety of wines & spirits. But as you dissect it closer, some of the more exotic drinks and peculiar dishes begin to stand out. Eclectic recipes with ingredients sourced from local producers. Unique offerings representing the best flavors of Bolivia to patrons of discerning taste.

I’ve included the entire menu as of May 2024, but note that some items may be seasonal and the options are subject to change. There is definitely a lot of culinary room to explore. I’ve pinned the “Cafegroni HB” coffee cocktail and “Llama Prime” sandwich as I will without a doubt return to HB Bronze to try them the next time I’m in La Paz.

Huge thanks to owner Boris Alarcón, manager Carlos Monzón and the rest of the excellent staff at HB Bronze for being such accommodating hosts.

HB Bronze: Plaza Tomas Frias 1570, La Paz, Bolivia

Phone: +591 2 2202323

Reservations: wa.me

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